Decanted

Name: Bottled Up In Seattle
Location: Seattle, WA, United States

Wednesday, March 19, 2008

Signing Off

Unforunately, I no longer have the time this blog deserves, so this is the official last post. I have become heavily invested in a new venture in the world of wine, and will be putting all future energy into that.

Thanks.

Bottled Up in Seattle

Wednesday, February 27, 2008

Screwcaps: The Missing Argument

Why doesn't anybody ever mention that screwstops equal putting plastic in contact with your wine. It may seem trivial, but, in this day and age of science exposing food plastics and their harmful leaching effects, I do not want my wine sitting on the plastic interior of the screwcap. I would love to see some data on whether or not the small amount of plastic contact could impart off-flavors or leech compounds into the wine. Just another possible argument against screwcaps.

Tuesday, February 26, 2008

Freemark Abbey - A History in the Glass

I recently had the opportunity to taste Freemark Abbey Cabernet Sauvignons (http://www.freemarkabbey.com/index.cfm) from the past 3 decades. As part of Freemark Abbey’s new ownership (Jess Jackson) group’s marketing strategy, they are hosting a select number of tastings of back vintage Cabernet that was unaccounted for stock. What a fantastic way to reintroduce consumers to the wines, as both back and current vintages are still made by Ted Edwards. The wines consisted of grapes farmed from three vineyards, Red Barn Ranch (Napa Valley Cab), and two single vineyards releases, the Bosché and Sycamore (a 100% Biodynamic) vineyard Cabs. Freemark Abbey was one of the first Napa wineries to release a single vineyard wine, the Bosché. All of the vineyards are owned by the winery, and are located in Napa Valley on the Rutherford Bench.

The Rutherford Bench is known for imparting a warm spice (some say allspice) and herbaceousness to the wine. This terroir driven characteristic is bolstered by the winemaking team’s desire to keep a small well-balanced vegetal element in the wine, by picking the grapes at a lower degree of Brix, according to assistant winemaker Brian. These elements were definitely prevalent in most of the wines tasted. Another trademark of these wines was the very smooth tannins that existed in the young vintages. This is due in part to some new winemaking techniques, but is also a result of extended aging in the barrel.

We started with a flight of Sycamore and Napa Valley Cabs, and then moved into a varied vertical of the Bosché Cab. Both flights were tasted in ascending vintage order. I have listed a combined ranking of the wines at the end of my tasting notes (1 being best, and 10 being least).

Flight 1
1987 Cabernet Sauvignon, Sycamore Vineyard – A fantastic wine, still showing abundant acidity, nice tannins and a little heat. The aromas were complex, displaying green olives and jalapenos. The palate had a slippery mouth feel and tartness. The wine also showed a bit woody, but not a detractor. The freshness and balance showed that these wines are definitely age-worthy. (3)
1995 Cabernet Sauvignon, Sycamore Vineyard – A bombastic effort with an amazing nose of sweet, round, ripe fruit and alluring warm spices. A hint of licorice showed later. This wine also showed lively acidity and lots of soft tannins. *The best wine of the night. (1)
2002 Cabernet Sauvignon, Sycamore Vineyard – Nice nose of warm spices and black cherries. Very smooth tannins and medium acidity. Pretty nice overall impression, but lacks much of a finish. (8)
1995 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley – The nose seemed a bit closed, and wasn’t showing much beyond the obvious mint. It also showed a bit woody. A silky smooth palate, but much less acidity and tannins remained, compared to the Sycamore. (9)
2003 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley – A gorgeous deep, slightly magenta color. It showed very sweet fruit with some spice and light oak. Teeth drying tannins on the finish. (6)

Flight 2
1990 Cabernet Sauvignon, Bosché
– Showed a lot of character, but mostly jalapeño and green pepper. Also showed a lot more oxidation than the ’91, despite only the 1 year age difference. Overall, just too many peppers for me, but a lot of others really enjoyed this effort. (7)
1991 Cabernet Sauvignon, Bosché – An unbelievably complex nose of roasted nuts, peppers and creosote. This wine also displayed one of the heaviest weighted palates I’ve ever experienced. Early, this wine was a phenomenal effort, which unfortunately faded after a half an hour or so. (4)
1993 Cabernet Sauvignon, Bosché – Immediately showed some stink, maybe barnyard minus the wet hay. The stink did eventually lift to show a lot of caramel and eucalyptus. The palate was hot and bitter, and overall the wine seemed to be past its prime, and quickly deteriorating. (10)
1998 Cabernet Sauvignon, Bosché – The ’98 was definitively the most unique wine of the night, as it presented different characteristics than we’d seen in all of the other wines. Most striking, was the fresh acidity that gripped my palate like a crisp white on a summer day, and I mean in a good way. The aromas were floral, developing into something gamey. This was overall, a phenomenal wine, and a close second. (2)
2002 Cabernet Sauvignon, Bosché – A very complex wine for its youth, showing the typical warm spice and cedar. This wine also showed plenty of dark fruit. A very good, young effort. (5)

The tasting was also nicely accompanied by a digital presentation (created by Keith, the Westcoast Educational Director for Jess Jackson wineries) of the winery’s history, and a really cool 3D movie of the Rutherford appellation and its vineyards, utilizing Google Earth. I applaud the party put on by the winery and expect great things from them in the future.

Thursday, February 21, 2008

Chateau Lascombes Vertical Tasting 2003-06

Hello, I am back from my hiatus, and intend to catch up on a lot of entries I have compiled during my absence from this blog.

I wanted to take a quick minute and get some thoughts down on the amazing Lascombes vertical we had yesterday, hosted by the Chateau and Esquin. All in all, I thought Parker's tasting notes on these wines were pretty spot on, but the main aromas I got from all 4 vintages were soft flowery notes, backed by smokiness (fire, not smoked meats), and a generally ripe fruit quality. All the wines were extremely drinkable, despite their youth, which is a hallmark of new winemaker (since 2001), Dominique Befve's, approach.

Here are a few video interviews featuring the winemaker:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1VZs1-lrx-8 - He gives his insight on the 2006 vinatge.
http://www.winetastetv.com/video/wine-talk/a-f/1798/dominique-befve-chateau-lascombes - Dominique gives some background on himself and the Chateau, as well as a run-down of recent vintages.

Specific tasting notes:
  • 2003 - The best of the bunch. A supremely balanced wine, offering a very round mouthfeel and the perfect amount of acidity and tannins. Aromatically, this was the smokiest of the bunch, and overall the most pronounced nose.
  • 2004 - The most deficient of the lot, but far from a disappointment. The wine struggled with balance, as it was lacking a bit of acidity and was showing bitter tannins. It seemed pretty thin, and a bit underextracted on the palate. The nose was consistent with the others, although not huge.
  • 2005 - Definitely showing as the second best, which was a bit surprising, considering the vintage (assumed it would be #1). Once again, a well balanced effort, tilting towards a bit sweet on the fruit. Aromatically, was showing more floral notes than the others.
  • 2006 - This was behaving impressively for a barrel sample, as this wine will not be bottled until June. I expect great things from this wine, but too early to comment on the palate and body. Probably the most fruity nose of the bunch, but not surprising, as the secondary aromas have not had time to develop.

Lacombes is a great place to start for the new world wine drinker, who would like to start exploring Bordeaux. The wines are still relatively inexpensive, at ~$50 for the 2004 and ~$75 for the 2005 (http://www.wine-searcher.com/), and will be an age-worthy investment. In addition, there accessibility as young wines, make them attractive to the individual without long term cellaring options. Esquin is also offering these vintages at very fair prices, especially when you consider shipping costs from OOS shops. Additionally, I always recommend supporting local independent wine shops, whenever possible.

Wednesday, January 2, 2008

Sideways Tasting

Sadly, the much anticipated Sideways tasting is now in the rear view mirror, and it is unlikely that we will resurrect the tasting. As far as any other over-the-top movie themed tastings on the horizon, we'll have to wait for Hollywood to provide us with more material. Unfortunately, unless we all want to drink make believe Bandol, A Good Year will not suffice, and I wouldn't count on a rendition of Bottle Shock (The Judgement of Paris), due to it's grandeur.

Aside from making the wine lists available in this post, I took a few minutes to reflect on the tasting, and Sideways country in general. I must admit, I had no notes and in some cases, only a faint memory of the wine...due in part to pouring most of the night, and just the overwhelming number of wines tasted.

Here is my possibly inexact recount of the evening:
I hope I'm not putting words in any one's mouth by saying there were three common themes to the tasting.
1. All of the wine was good, a majority very good, and most of all, the expectations we had for these wines were exceeded. I had more than a few people get excited about these wines in their conversations with me.
2. Although the Pinot's were good, most of them did not differentiate themselves, and could all be lumped under the following tasting note: Well balanced wines, lacking some acidity. Bright simple fruit aromas of strawberry and raspberry, sometimes going to syrupy. I have reviewed a few exceptions below.
3. The whites and rose were all very good to great wines, taking value into account. I think we were all surprised how drinkable the Firestone was, considering the winery's reputation and the WE score of 82. See my specific notes on the Sanford Vin Gris and the Kalyra Chardonnay, below.

Sanford Vin Gris - What I love about this wine is the balance I get, and the pure fruit. For me, most roses can be described as watery, bitter wines, sometimes finishing with doctor's office alcohol. This wine has surpassed Syncline (although different varietals), as my rose of choice.
Blackjack Ranch Maximus Syrah - A massive wine of dense concentration, but open enough to show it's complexity. This was my Best in Show.
Kalyra Chardonnay - As expected, this wine shined. People who don't "like Chardonnay" (unfortunately a lot of my friends), found a Chardonnay they want to drink in this wine. Knowing this Chardonnay is steel fermented, I can only come to the same conclusion as Miles, they like all varietals, but do not like the way they manipulate Chardonnay in California with the new oak and secondary malolactic fermentation. I suggest you all try the Four Vines Naked Chardonnay, and it's a great vintage to start liking Chablis. On a side note, Alison and I have loved all of Kalyra's whites (Chard, Semillion, Sauv Blanc, Late Harvest Gewurtz), and I strongly suggest doing their wine club, which gives a 25% discount.
Whitcraft Bien Nacido Q Block Pinot Noir - This wine has the most obvious nose of gravel, I've ever detected. But not just any gravel, the kind you end up face down in, with a bloody nose, after you've bitten it on a well traveled, dusty mountain bike trail. The irony minerality of it (which JK alerted me to) gives me the bloody nose reference.
Sea Smoke Botella Pinot Noir - Tightly wound with a lot of structure, but still showing nice fruit and other complex aromas. Needs time.
Kistler Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir - Very pronounced aromas of warm spices. Round mouth feel. These wines are simply priced to high for what you get, and can get at a more affordable level.
Dominique Laurent Les Epenots Pommard - Disappointing, considering that it comes from one of the top 2 Premier Cru vineyards.
Hitching Post Highliner Pinot Noir - For those of us that stuck around for second pours, this wine rewarded us. It opened up to be one of the most complex wines of the night. Big smoky aromas of cedar and tobacco, and a silky mouth feel.
Fess Parker Clone 115 Pinot Noir - A huge surprise...in a good way. This "Frass Canyon" winery did nothing but disappoint us on our trip to the tasting room. Out of necessity (needed a wine for the tasting), we purchased the most expensive, highly rated wine they had on their shelf without tasting it. There was no way I was bringing home any of the swill we tasted. I can't recall any specific tasting notes, but it was my #2 wine of the night.
Cheval Blanc - Still too tight for me to get much of anything from the nose. It did have a nice silky mouth feel, with good back end tannins, suggesting it may still need to evolve in the bottle. Overall, didn't reach the hype I'd placed on it, or the hope I had for it.

Lastly, I wanted to give a few shout-outs to the restaurants of the greater Santa Ynez Valley, all of which I consider a MUST when visiting. We had an amazing dinner at the Hitching Post II http://www.hitchingpost2.com/restaurant.html, nothing too fancy, just a great old-time steakhouse...you know the kind that gives you the carousel of baked potato toppings. We also had lunch at the Los Olivos Cafe and Wine Merchant http://www.losolivoscafe.com/. The food was great, offering fusion selections and genral bistro fare. The highlight being, the bread and dipping sauce, which can be purchased at the restaurant (the sauce that is...you wouldn't want to take the bread home). Stay away from the wine merchant unless you want to get ripped off, but they did have Sea Smoke...so in some cases it may be alright to overpay. And of course we needed to go to the Solvang Restaurant http://www.solvangrestaurant.com/ (where Miles and Jack went for breakfast, it had the Scandinavian booths) for some aebleskivers, a spherical pancake dipped in jam.

Here are the 2 wine lists
winesFeaturedInSideways.pdf - All the wines (showing a label) seen in the movie.
sidewaysTasting.pdf - The list of stuff we tasted.

Screenshots of the mystery wine can be scene here:
(*The mystery winery has been solved. It is Lucas & Lewellen Vineyards, from the Sanata Maria Valley. they have a tasting room in Solvang.)
mysteryWine1.png
mysteryWine2.png

Monday, December 31, 2007

Grower Champagne

I just wanted to quickly collect some articles and thoughts on Champagne before New Year's Eve, so here they are.

The current trend in Champagne, is Grower Champagne, sparklers made by the individual(s) who actually own the vineyards, grow the grapes, and produce the wine in their own estate Champagne house. The general feeling is that these wines are not only a better value than the big brands, but simply just better wines. Better, because the Grower Champagnes are made artisanally, in diverse styles that reflect the terroir of their place, instead of the house style you get with the big boys; and because they run about half as much as a prestige cuvee. Personally, I still question the value, as most of these wines are all above, and sometimes well above $40, but that's the cost of doing business in Champagne. Also, it's important when relating value, to make the distinction, between NV house style bubbly vs. the better vintage and prestige cuvee bottlings of the large Champagne houses.

Here's a nice article by Paul Gregutt, to get you up to speed on the Grower Champagne phenomenon.
http://archives.seattletimes.nwsource.com/cgi-bin/texis.cgi/web/vortex/display?slug=pacificptaste23&date=20071223&query=grower+champagne

I also think that De Long does a fantastic job of addressing big Champagne house marketing, and gives a nice primer on the Champagne process and how it's related to industrial made Champagne. Here's the article:
\http://www.delongwine.com/news/2006/12/15/grower-champagne/

Then of course, there's the over-the-top Gary Vaynerchuk (of Wine Library TV), going nuts over these wines. I've linked up a couple video blog episodes, one in which he goes to a tasting bar in NYC, and another with the classic table tasting in the shop.
http://tv.winelibrary.com/2007/12/13/tasting-some-bubbly-at-blue-ribbon-episode-370/
http://tv.winelibrary.com/2006/10/24/grower-champagne-and-two-huge-announcements-episode-114/

With all the inertia these wines are getting, I think it's still important to come to your own conclusions on Grower vs. big house Champagnes, I think Decanter did a nice job this month with their article on Prestige Cuvee's, cementing that these wines are still great wines.

I have purchased the Gaston Chiquet and a bottle of Pierre Peters, planning to do one or both tonight, I'll report back with my tasting notes.

Wednesday, December 12, 2007

Classic Wine & Cheese Pairing

Last week I happened upon one of those pairings that flips the light on in your mind and helps you understand that the sum of the two (food & wine), is truly greater than their parts. We were having a small plates dinner and a bunch of random wines with friends when we discovered this unlikely pairing. It was a 2005 Four Vines Anarchy (Syrah, Mourvedre, Zinfandel) with Gouda Parrano Uniekaas. It is essential to consume a bite of the cheese before you have a drink, as the opposite process does not leave you with the same effect. The "effect" being, an astounding finish of menthol and black licorice in your mouth.